It's pretty rare for a group of people to agree on one thing. Don't believe me? Try asking nine different people, "Can Antoni from Queer Eye really cook?" at your next party. EVERYONE has an opinion on that one. (#TeamAntoni)
Which is why when we recently asked a group of top dermatologists their go-to product for preventing wrinkles, we were floored to get the same answer from all nine of them: retinol.
What is retinol?
"Retinol is the single best-studied ingredient in fighting skin aging," says Joshua Zeichner, M.D., director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in NYC. Retinoids, the broad term for a derivative of vitamin A that includes over-the-counter retinol and adapalene, stimulates collagen production and minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, he says.
Zeichner is not alone in his praise of retinoids. "Retinoids are tried and true and one of the most effective ingredients to prevent and treat wrinkles," says Sejal Shah, M.D., a New York City cosmetic dermatologist. Francesca Fusco, M.D., says she has been using various forms of retinol for the past 15 years and considers it to be "the most powerful ingredient for rejuvenation."
And it's not just for anti-aging. Retinoid products like prescription Retin-A (also known as tretinoin) can also minimize pores and get rid of blackheads and whiteheads, says Kristina Goldenberg, M.D., an NYC medical and cosmetic dermatologist. They can also help exfoliate dead skin cells and even ease pigmentation, says Robert Finney, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
The type of retinol most derms prefer
No shocker here: Derms go for the prescription stuff, namely Retin-A. "It is the best anti-aging product you can use over a lifetime," says Kavita Mariwalla, M.D., a dermatologist based in Long Island, New York.
David Lortscher, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and the CEO and founder of Curology, refers to Retin-A as the "gold standard," for fighting signs of aging. And NYC dermatologist Anna Karp, M.D., says she uses it at night because it's "stronger" than the OTC retinol alternatives.
Before you try it...
A word of caution: Retin-A is super powerful stuff. (That's why you can only get it as a prescription.) And retinoids in general, whether you're using an over-the-counter cream or a dermatologist-prescribed serum, can cause redness, dryness, and irritation in sensitive skin types.
This may put people off, but most derms feel that the benefits outweigh any downsides. "Less is more," says Deanne Mraz-Robinson, M.D., of the Connecticut Dermatology Group. Finney agrees. "The stronger the concentration, the more effective it can be, but it will also cause more irritation," he says. He suggests always using moisturizer after your retinoid product to help reduce irritation.
It's also wise to ease into using a retinoid product—start off by using a pea-sized amount every other night, says Mraz-Robinson, then use it more frequently (up to once a day) as your skin gets used to it. "If you are still experiencing irritation with this method, you can apply the retinol over top of your night moisturizer," she says.
And if you also love chemical exfoliants—like a face mask or peel that has glycolic acid—skip it on nights where you're using retinol to avoid overly irritating your skin.
In the past, people with rosacea and other inflammatory skin conditions might have assumed that retinol was off the table. (Why risk even more irritation!) But while you should skip on the retinol during a breakout, the ingredient actually can be helpful in treating rosacea over time. Just look for gentler versions of the ingredient (like retinaldehyde or retinyl propionate) that your skin will actually be able to handle.
Stumped on where to start? While lots of retinol-laced products can be pricey (or only available by prescription), there are plenty of affordable options out there:
Best drugstore buy: RoC Retinol Correxion Sensitive Night Cream
This product has retinol levels just shy of what you can get from a prescription product. It also has a slow-release delivery system that will prevent retinoid newbies from getting overwhelmed.
Best for acne: Differin Gel
This was recently approved by the FDA to be sold OTC rather than by prescription (and at a much lower price)—and derms everywhere love it. Perfect for those of us who are #blessed with wrinkles AND acne.
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